Photo: Markos Spanos

And while we had randomly picked yet another little island we hadn’t had the chance to visit before, to spend the Holy days of Easter and unwind a bit, what does the design geek in me discover?

That Leros, our chosen destination for this year, is not only a beautiful island, but also holds architectural interest…Is it due to the design geek instinct? Because I swear, I didn’t plan this! But since I ended up there, let me tell you what I discovered!

Tucked into a wide, sheltered bay on the island of Leros, the town of Lakki may seem, at first glance, like an architectural anomaly in the Greek Aegean. Instead of the classic Dodecanese whitewashed houses, Lakki greets visitors with broad boulevards, streamlined buildings, and a striking blend of Art Deco, Rationalism, and Bauhaus-inspired modernism. It’s one of the most unique architectural legacies in Greece — and perhaps one of the most unexpected.

The school complex, Lakki. Photo: Peny Zerva

A Town Born of Strategy and Style

Lakki was not always known by its current name. During the Italian occupation of the Dodecanese (1912–1943), it was called Portolago, named after Admiral Mario Lago. The Italians had grand plans for the port: it was to become a key naval base and administrative hub for their ambitions in the Eastern Mediterranean.

What followed was a bold architectural experiment. Italian architects, most notably Armando Bernabiti and Rodolfo Petracco, were given the freedom to design a modern town from scratch. Their vision aligned with the ideals of Fascist Modernism—an architectural style that emphasized functionality, symmetry, geometric lines, and monumentality, often with minimal ornamentation. But it was also deeply influenced by international modernist movements that were shaping Europe at the time.

Cinema/theatre, Lakki. Photo: Peny Zerva

Key Architectural Landmarks

Walking through Lakki today feels like stepping into a 1930s time capsule. Many of the buildings remain in place, some restored, others crumbling quietly under the Mediterranean sun. Notable landmarks include:

• The Market (Agora): With its round central structure and expansive arches, it embodies the balance between form and function.
• Cinema/Theatre: A standout example of Art Deco influence, with curving lines and a dramatic façade.
• Hotel Romeos (originally “Albergo Roma”): Once a glamorous stop for naval officers, now a haunting reminder of past grandeur.
• The School Complex: Designed with symmetry and openness in mind — progressive for its time.
• The Naval Administration Building: Clean lines and modern proportions highlight its administrative purpose.

Ex Italian Municipality hall, Lakki. Photo: Peny Zerva

An Architectural Curiosity

Lakki is often described as the “most unique architectural town in Greece”, and for good reason. It’s a rare example of a whole town constructed in a rationalist-modernist style during the interwar period. The juxtaposition of this architectural language against the traditional Aegean landscape makes Lakki feel almost surreal — a forgotten utopia from another era.

Additionally, Lakki seems to be the town with the most Art Deco buildings in one place, second only to Miami.

Naval administration building, Lakki. Photo: Peny Zerva

Preservation and the Future

For decades, Lakki’s architectural treasures were neglected or misunderstood. But in recent years, there’s been a growing appreciation of its historical and aesthetic significance. Some buildings have been renovated, and local initiatives aim to protect and promote Lakki’s unique character, attracting architects, historians, and curious travelers alike.

View of the port, Lakki. Photo: Peny Zerva

Lakki Today: Past Meets Present

Today, Lakki is a quiet, laid-back town, far removed from the mass tourism of other Greek islands. Yet its story, frozen in its buildings, resonates more than ever — as a testament to the complex layers of history that shape places, and the enduring power of architecture to tell those stories.

Whether you’re a lover of design, a history buff, or simply a traveler in search of something different, Lakki offers a fascinating glimpse into a time when modernism met the Mediterranean — and left behind a one-of-a-kind townscape.

Until next time!!! 

Design geek in Athens